Brace, Copenhagen

“There are unexpected similarities between Italian cooking and the New Nordic style,” Mr. Fanetti said. “Both kitchens make a cult of freshness, the seasons and simplicity.”

Occupying a brick house in an arty, young corner of the city center, Restaurant Brace has a warm, casual vibe with an industrial loftlike décor — low lighting, bare wood tables. Open only for dinner, the choice here is between an eight- or 12-course prix fixe menu.

My partner and I chose the longer menu, and after a whimsical selection of hors d’oeuvres, including a superb carbonara tart — the egg cheese and pancetta sauce in a pastry shell — the meal started with an angelic dish of buffalo mozzarella with green asparagus and caviar.

The gastronomic encounter between Italy and Scandinavia was more vividly conveyed by small plates like a Norwegian langoustine served with artichoke, Sicilian almonds and ramson “capers” (pickled wild garlic seeds), an intriguing array of textures and distinctly different levels of sweetness, and an earthy dish of morel mushrooms with broad beans and lardo from Cinta Senese, a breed of Tuscan pig.

This fascinating meal’s most memorable composition was a chlorophyll- and umami-rich flamed mackerel with nettles, green peas and ’nduja, the soft spicy Calabrian sausage. In this dish, as in many others, it was the potency of judiciously used Italian produce that revealed the hidden sensuality of Nordic cooking.
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